Tester

Schriss, w dziale dla poczatkujacych jest "metryczka" . Wklej ja tutaj i odpowiedz na pytania. To nam ulatwi znalezienie problemu Wysyane z mojego GT-I9300 za pomoc Tapatalk 2

hehe liczylem na Ciebie Kamil

dlugoterminowo wyjdzie taniej

im wieksze akwarium tym wieksza szansa ze sie uda. Idac tym tropem, jesli wystartujesz z 30L to duzego nie postawisz, a jesli nawet postawisz to cala kasa wydana na 30L pojdzie w komin

nie ma problemu - temperatura M. Czerwonego zima spada do okolo 22 stopni i jest git

Ok znam date Bede w Lodzi w weekend 06/10/2012 Czyli spotkanie w sobote szostego? Czas i miejsce niech wybiora aktywni lodzianie Lista chetnych otwarta: 1. Testerek 2. ... Wysyane z mojego GT-I9300 za pomoc Tapatalk 2

i jeszcze to - cos dla nas !!!

Przychodzi dwunastoletnia dziewczynka do ginekologa i mówi: - Panie doktorze, mam kłopoty z seksem oralnym! Doktor odpowiada: - Ależ dziecko, ty masz jeszcze mleko pod nosem! Dziewczynka: - To nie mleko... Przeprowadzono ankietę wśród młodzieży, która wykazała, że 42% młodychludzi patrzy optymistycznie w przyszłość. Pozostałe 58% nie ma pieniędzy na narkotyki... Widzisz?! To fifka, która była pod twoją szafą! Kiedy ty skończysz z narkotykami?! - Jakie narkotyki! Uwierz mi od kiedy ciebie poznałem zmieniłem sie, zerwałem ze swoją przeszłościa, jesteś jedyną którą kocham. - Synu! To ja - twój ojciec! Laboratorium chemiczne. Blondynka pyta brunetkę: - Co robisz? - Ekstrahuję... - odpowiada brunetka. - Naprawdę!? Zrób mi ze dwa... Dzień kobiet, a tu jeden z podwładnych przynosi swojemu kierownikowi (mężczyźnie) kwiaty, a na to kierownik zdumiony: - Co pan, przeciez to Dzien Kobiet. - No wiem ale pomyslalem ze przyniose panu, bo z pana taka ku*wa. Syn rozwiązuję krzyżówkę i przy jednym z hasel prosi ojca o pomoc: - Tato, szpara u kobiety na "P"? - Poziomo czy pionowo? - Poziomo... - To będzie "pysk"! Rozmowa dwóch gostkow: - Słuchaj, jak nazywa sie zupa z wielu kur? - Nie mam pojecia. - Rosol, Z KUR WIELU. - Dobre, musze opowiedzieć swojemu szefowi. Drugi dzień w pracy: - Szefie, szefie, jak sie nazywa zupa z wielu kur? - Nie wiem. - Rosół, ty h*ju! Fryzjer do klientki z tlustymi wlosami: - Strzyżenie, czy wymiana oleju? Mąż wraca późno do domu. Żona już leży w łóżku, więc mąż szybko się rozbiera i przytula się do niej. Żona: - Nie zaczynaj dzisiaj. Boli mnie głowa. - Zmówiłyście się dzisiaj czy co, do jasnej cholery?! Mąż pyta żonę po stosunku: - Miałaś orgazm? - Tak. - I co się mówi? - Dziekuję. Mąż do żony: - Masz ochotę na szybki numerek? - A są jakieś inne? Głos z radia:- Czas na poranną gimnastykę. Jesteście gotowi? No, to zaczynamy! Góra-dół, góra-dół... A teraz druga powieka!!! P: Jaka jest najczęściej spotykana wada postawy u żonatych facetów? O: d*pa na boku. Rozmowa dwóch kolegów: - Słyszałem, że są w sprzedaży takie szkła, przez które wszystko wydaje się piękniejsze, nawet własna żona... - Znam je już od lat. Są dobre, tylko stale trzeba je napełniać…

bardzo sluszna uwaga

dla mnie to glut na scianie w pokoju, kuchni i sypialni a tak powaznie to na oko wyglada na jakiegos slimaka nagoskrzelnego choc ostrosc albo nawet jej brak, w zasadzie wyklucza podanie dokladnej odpowiedzi Pozdro

o nie, ona mysli ze jestem calkowitym abstynentem

no to rozpuszczajcie wici i podbijajcie temat bede sie staral byc w pierwszy weekend pazdziernika ale musze zgrac urlop z zona

yo yo, Panowie (i Panie jesli sa jakies) Nie wiem jeszcze dokladnie kiedy ale bardzo mozliwe ze bede w pazdzierniku w Łodzi i fajnie by bylo stuknac sie kufelkami. Pisze juz teraz bo Łodziaki strasznie dlugo sie zbieraja dokladny termin bede znal do konca tygodnia - na pewno zahacze o jakis łykend Pozdrowka, Testerek

Daj swiatlo - im szybciej przejdziesz przez porzadne dojrzewanie tym lepiej. Bez swiatla bedzie to trwalo wieki bo za redukcje NO3 odpowiadaja rowniez glone - a te swiatlo miec musza

Panowie, wystarczy juz tego kamieniowania. Mysle ze Dagmara zrozumiala i nie ma sensu powtarzac tego samego w kazdym poscie... Wrocmy do tematu...

No tak, ale tak jak pisalem w poscie #98 w toni wodnej jest marginalna ilosc bakterii ktore tak czy siak trafia do odpieniacza. "wypalenie" ich razem z ospa, brooklynella, wirusami etc jest chyba slusznym argumentem. a na ozon nie stosujesz wegla?

a o to juz Cie nie smialem prosic

Gotowe !!! Istotne jest zeby w kazdym nowym temacie o zakladniu nowego akwarium podawac jego wielkosc np [150] Co do galerii to pewne ograniczenia naklada sam silnik forum

Ja w sumie musze wycofac sprawe bo przeczyscilem je i po usunieciu aiptasii i zbielalych kawalkow polowe musialem wyrzucic. Wysyłane z mojego GT-I9300 za pomocą Tapatalk 2

mam bardzo fajne artykuly o redox i ozonie tyle ze po angielsku a niedziela wieczor to nie jest odpowiedni czas na tlumaczenie wiec moge wstawic oryginal lub tlumaczenie z google. Kto chce to sobie wrzuci w tlumacza: tekst nie moj, kiedys sciagnalem z netu jako plik tekstowy. 10. REDOX POTENTIAL AND THE REEF TANK: 10.1 A DEFINITION: Redox potential is definitely a new concept to the hobby. Many articles have been written about it, and more confusion has resulted because of the many ways in which redox potential is explained. Chemically speaking, redox potential, also referred to as oxidation reduction potential, abbreviated to ORP, is a most difficult concept to explain. Because the hobbyist does not really need to understand the chemical meaning of redox potential, but only how it can be used and interpreted with respect to his, or her, tank, its explanation can, in my opinion, be kept fairly simple and easy to understand by every hobbyist interested in it. Very simply, the redox potential of the water in the tank is a measure, usually expressed in a 3 number millivolt value, of the oxidation potential of that water. Organic material in aquariums soon starts to decay and requires oxygen in the process. The greater the amount of decay taking place, the more oxygen is used. The more oxidative power the water has, or has left, the better it will be able to deal with organic material in the tank, the material that pollutes the water that we want to reduce to a minimum for the benefit of all animals in the aquarium. The more efficiently this takes place the better off the tank will be. Highly oxidative media demonstrate high millivolt readings. Case in point oxygen: ozone, chlorine, fluorine, and so on. All these compounds, two of which are of interest to us, oxygen and ozone, have a very large ability to oxidize organic material in the tank. If media that have high oxidative powers also have high redox potential values, it follows for the purpose of our explanation, that if the tank's water has a high redox potential, it also has a high oxidative power. Because the oxidative power of a medium gets "used" as it chemically goes to work on organic material in the tank, such power will be reduced, and the redox potential of the medium will be lower, some of its power having been employed in the process of oxidizing the pollutants present in the water. Putting all of the above together we can say the following: Water of high purity must exhibit a rather high redox potential value, because if it was not pure, its oxidative power would have been used up, lowered that is, in the process of cleaning up the water and dealing with the organic material that was present in it. Decay lowers the number, so in water with low numbers, decay is taking place. We do not want such water in our tanks. We want water where no decay is taking place, or very little. Consequently we are looking for our tank to demonstrate a rather elevated redox potential value. More on numbers later. Given that high numbers = high oxidative power, pure water must have a high number as well because if it was not pure the high number would have been reduced as a result of the lower quality (the decay that is taking place). So we know that the redox potential of the water in our tank should be high. How high? We will get into that a little later, as just indicated. Since we keep animals that come from natural reefs, many a diver/hobbyist/author has taken measurements of the redox potential around natural reefs. Because the redox potential of any medium, in our case salt water, is influenced by many factors, there never is a unique number that can be found around the reef, applied and suggested. The redox potential around reefs varies considerably during any 24 hour period. Why? Because of light, temperature, metabolism, the number of animals, the pH of the water, the level of dissolved oxygen, and so on. Many factors influence ORP, and its value can change for any number of reasons. <a name="10.3"> 10.2 TYPES OF REDOX POTENTIAL EQUIPMENT: How is redox potential measured? Several instruments are offered for sale in the hobby that will indicate the ORP level in either 2 or 3 digits. Some of these can act as controllers at the same time, because they have a relay built-in that can switch another device on and off. This concept is of great interest because we can use the relay trigger to add compounds to the water that will clean it up if its redox potential falls below a certain number. Again, more on this later. Besides the instrument, whether a plain meter or a controller, one needs a sensing device, called an electrode or probe, that can send a signal to the meter or controller, which can then in turn display a value: the redox potential. Two decisions the hobbyist interested in measuring redox potential has to make, after deciding whether he, or she, wants a meter or a controller, are: Which type of meter or controller to buy. What type of redox electrode to acquire. These are important decisions because the equipment we are talking about is not cheap, and once you decide to spend several hundreds of dollars, you want to be sure that you have spent them on the right piece of equipment. Good meters and good controllers cost quite a bit of money, and so do good electrodes. As a general rule, several types of meters and controllers exist, and so do several types of electrodes. All are excellent for the purpose they are intended for. They are not bad units. There are just buyers who buy the wrong unit for the application that is theirs. Because redox potential is such a new concept, and because some resellers in the hobby do not fully understand the differences between various units either, several meters and some controllers are offered for sale that are not accurate enough for use in the hobby around reef aquariums. Two general types of units exist: industrial quality and laboratory quality. Industrial units allow for general range measurements and offer a fair amount of accuracy, whereas laboratory quality units are obviously very accurate. And since the degree of accuracy determines the price... Meters and controllers also come in two general finishes: bench types with a full enclosure, and panel mount units, with partial enclosure. Bench types are plug-in ready, and you can use them immediately, whereas panel mount units usually aren't. You may have to do quite a bit of wiring yourself. They often also have fully exposed and unprotected wiring in the back of the unit, which is not recommended underneath an aquarium because of the high humidity (over 90%) and the salt which will corrode the unit. Industrial units are on average not accurate enough for our purpose, but have the benefit of being inexpensive. Companies such as Ex-tech, Markson's, Cole Parmer, and others, sell such units starting at prices in the $200 to $300 range without electrode. Many of these units are, in fact, now sold in the hobby, albeit at much higher prices. Often they are panel mount types. All resellers do is get a unit that you can buy yourself, place their name on it and mark it up substantially. If industrial is the way you decide to go, buy the units direct from the companies mentioned, and save. Laboratory units are much more expensive, and are far more accurate than what the hobbyist really needs. Meters and controllers from companies such as Hach, Beckmann, WTW, and Fisher, can cost well over $1000 without electrode. But if money is no object, and/or you want a top of the line unit, this is the way to go. These differences in type and finish pose a problem insomuch as to offer a unit that is affordable, most resellers offer industrial units, either as they come, or with some wiring added to it in the case of panel mount meters/controllers. Hobbyists buying such units end up with industrial type meters or controllers that are, in my opinion, not quite good enough to use on your reef tank. How much less accurate are these units? Large differences exist, but often the error is expressed as a % of scale. Ask the question before buying. A 2% of scale error in meters/controllers that read from -1000mv to +1000mv is equal to a possible 40 millivolt difference. Similarly a 1.5% of scale works out to 30 mv, and 1% of scale is still 20 mv in such meters. The difference between a reading of 400 mv and 440 mv is significant in a reef, especially when the number read by the controller is used to trigger the on and off cycle of an ozonizer. Buy a unit with low error rating if you can. They are offered for sale too. Because only two companies offer controllers specifically made for the hobby, they should be your first preference, because they are made taking the requirements of the reef tank into account. Next, consider getting a bottom of the scale laboratory unit, they are still more accurate than industrial types, and only then an industrial type, using it while you keep its inherent drawbacks in mind. The problem of selecting the right setup does not end here. Great variations exist also in the types of electrodes that can be used to measure redox potential. This is similar to what was described about pH electrodes. The far greatest problem, I have found, is that most electrodes are not suited for continuous immersion in salt water. It takes a special electrode to resist the harsh environment that a reef tank is, with all the salt, the organic material in the water, and ozone being used etc. Of course, when buying an electrode, not necessarily from the same people you buy the meter or controller from, make sure it can take that rough treatment. Again, only 2 companies offer such electrodes besides the catalog places already referred to. When dealing with the latter, talk to their technical department first to determine which one you should order. Expect to spend in excess of $150.00 for the type of electrode you need. Get an ORP electrode cleaning solution and a standard reference solution as well (for example a 465 mv). Depending on where exactly you place the meter or controller, you may need an electrode extension cable as well. Cost: approximately $25-30.00 for a good one with "silver" connections and cable that does not distort your reading even if 15 feet long. The resolution of the unit you buy should be at least 3 digits, meaning it should read in hundreds of millivolt. The readout should indicate at least 3 numbers, not two. Some meters/controllers are sold with LCD's (liquid crystal readout). Think twice before getting them. LCD's do not hold up well at all in a moist environment. Buy units with LED's (light emitting). Rarely will you see a complete listing of suggested redox potential levels, and rarely will they be qualified. Below is such a table, painstakingly arrived at after many years of testing and observation of many a tank (mostly tanks in my own basement and home). It involved keeping notes and charts in a total of 7 different notebooks. These numbers can be used as really safe guidelines. I fully stand behind them, having arrived at them through a lot of empiric evidence and observations by myself and others who were asked questions about tank appearance in general, specific animal appearance, macro-algae growth or lack thereof, micro-algae growth or lack thereof, fish appearance, and so on. These millivolt ranges apply in aquariums with a medium to high load (not a heavy lead), with a pH of between 8.15 and 8.25, a temperature of around 76-77 deg Fahrenheit, and a salinity of 35ppt (0/00). Because of the type of filtration used on the tanks tested, the dissolved oxygen levels were always at saturation or higher. Columnar and venturi protein skimmers and ozone were used as well. Look at the numbers carefully and determine where your tank fits in. If you are not in the right range, use one or several of the many methods suggested in this book to increase the redox of your tank. Very little will be alive : below 100 millivolt Very Bad : below 140 millivolt. Bad : 140 to 180 millivolt Poor : 180 to 200 millivolt Too Low : 200 to 220 millivolt New salt water : 220 to 240 millivolt Low : 220 to 270 millivolt Medium : 270 to 310 millivolt Good : 310 to 340 millivolt Better : 340 to 360 millivolt Best : 360 to 390 millivolt High : 390 to 450 millivolt Too high : over 450 millivolt Dangerous : over 525 millivolt Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt All readings were taken using a platinum, silver, silver chloride electrode, cleaned on a regular basis. Several controllers were used: Sander, WTW, and TAT. Readings were taken after the lights had been on for two hours. Metal halide lighting of three different kinds was used during the course of the experiment over the aquariums: Osram Power Stars, Venture Lighting 4300 K, and recently the new Coralife 5500 Kelvin degree bulbs. Because redox potential is such a sensitive and changing measurement, you must be careful when comparing these values to the ones in your own tank. Pay attention to the type of electrode used and the conditions existing in your own tank, especially the pH. No one level is ideal, but from the chart above it is easy to see that the range of 360 mv to 390 mv is obviously a very desirable one to be in. Aquariums can be maintained for short periods of time at higher levels, but you must pay careful attention to all life forms in the tank if you do. If they react negatively you must lower the redox immediately by, for example, switching off your ozonizer, or adjusting the set point on your redox controller to a lower number. Many German hobbyists tend to run their tanks at slightly higher levels than the ones suggested here: often around 430-450 mv. This is still in the safe range, but on the high side of it. They report that it greatly reduces the annoyance of micro-algae. My personal experience with running aquariums at the recommended redox potential levels is of a different nature. Yes, micro-algae problems were far less a factor, in fact, it was a non-issue, but that was, in my opinion, mainly due to extremely low levels of nitrates and phosphates in my tanks. I keep nitrates below 5 ppm of NO3, and phosphates below 0.05 ppm of PO4. What I was able to notice over and over and document as well, is that corals open wider, so-called picky fish eat without any problems, and the overall tank appearance, all greatly improve at the suggested levels of 360 to 390 millivolt. You may want to experiment and see it for yourself. 10.6 WORKING WITH REDOX POTENTIAL LEVELS: Knowing your redox potential value is one thing, being able to interpret and use it is yet another matter altogether. Once you have the value in the right range, its absolute number becomes less important, it is mostly the trend that you are and should be interested in. To illustrate this premise we will use an example and some redox potential values, and then take a closer look at that aquarium's conditions and water chemistry: (Conditions: Tank 100 gals, pH 8.2, salinity 35 ppt, Temp 76 deg, load medium, D.O. saturation, Lights on at 9.00 am and off at 9.00 pm.) 10.6.1 AQUARIUM WITH STABLE READINGS OVER 5 DAYS: Redox 7.00 10.00 15.00 19.00 22.00 Day 1 401 387 379 375 391 Day 2 400 389 375 375 394 Day 3 398 384 374 370 396 Day 4 397 386 377 371 392 Day 5 397 388 372 373 390 As you notice, the readings are taken 5 times a day, and all exhibit a fairly stable value over a period of 5 days. The values are all in the correct range (360-390 for the majority) and the tank shows no signs of stress. Take, for instance, all 3.00 pm readings (15.00 hours): 379, 375, 374, 377, 373. All are within a narrow range and no great fluctuations exist. The same applies to values taken at other times of the day, either before the lights are on, or even when the lights have been off for a while. Because the trend is good and does not fluctuate up or down much, these can be considered readings taken on a tank that must be doing very well. And so it was. It looked in real good shape, animals were wide open after the lights were on for about 1 to 2 hours, and no micro-algae could be seen except for some very minimal amounts if one looked carefully. So little that it was actually beneficial to the overall look of the aquarium. What I mean by the latter is that the tank did not look like a sterile environment. 10.6.2 AQUARIUM SHOWING SIGNS OF STRESS: Redox 7.00 10.00 15.00 19.00 22.00 Day 1 390 355 346 340 358 Day 2 386 354 347 344 356 Day 3 384 354 342 340 355 Day 4 384 355 340 339 354 Day 5 382 350 338 338 350 Day 6 381 351 338 336 353 In this example, although all redox numbers are still pretty close to the suggested best values, one can notice that over the course of 5 days all values have somewhat dropped. Look at all values taken at 7.00 am, or all values taken at 7.00 pm (19.00 hours), and see for yourself that they are slowly, but surely, going down. This is an indication that the water quality is slowly deteriorating. Ever so slightly, but the discerning hobbyist will take that as a message that he or she better find out exactly what is happening "before" the situation really gets out of hand, and problems that are much harder to deal with start. Keeping records of what is happening becomes, therefore, even more important. Without records you will not know what the trend is. We are not suggesting that you take five or more readings each day. Such is not practical for the majority of hobbyists anyway, but you can certainly record two or three. Usually one or two can be taken early in the morning, with one being a minimum. Two should be taken in the evening, one some time before the lights go out, and one after they have been out for about an hour to two hours. Such readings will give you enough material to work with and will tell you what the redox value's tendency is. Looking at the trend obviously tells you whether you are in the recommended value range, but it tells you much more because you can see by the numbers whether your aquarium water is stable, or going up or down in quality, depending on how the redox potential values move. When an action/reaction on your part is necessary, it can be planned and taken care of sooner and before things really get out of shape completely. This can save your animals and the looks of your tank. For example, a dropping redox potential may be an early indication that a fish has died, and that you need to find it and remove it from your system before too much pollution is added to the water. 10.6.3 AQUARIUM WITH FALLING REDOX TENDENCY: In such aquariums the redox falls continuously over a period of a few hours, and nothing seems to be able to make it rise again unless, of course, some type of action is initiated by the hobbyist. Which particular one is not relevant at this point. It will be any of the ones mentioned already, but more likely than not, a combination of several. A falling redox potential may happen slowly, as in the following example of two days' readings: Day 1 396 379 372 taken at 7.00 and 10.00 am, and 10.00 pm Day 2 355 343 331 taken at the same hours one day later In each case the readings have fallen substantially from the previous day, a definite indication that something is wrong, and that some sort of action is required to counteract this effect. Or it may happen much faster. For example, if the readings taken on the first day, at the same times, showed redox potential values of respectively 326, 299, and 264 mv. Obviously, in this particular case trouble is already at hand, because the numbers are falling so rapidly. 10.7 INFLUENCING THE REDOX UPWARDS: It should be fairly clear by now to you that increasing the redox is not just the result of one action. Redox potential values rise when a combination of factors favorably influence it. Most of the ones commonly used have been described either in this chapter, or in other parts of the book. Follow the suggestions made and your tank will definitely improve in water quality and appearance in a matter of a few weeks or less. Plan on using a really efficient protein skimmer, with ozone, and low redox values will be a matter of the past. Keep your maintenance and husbandry up and your redox will stay high. Do not overfeed and do not overcrowd the tank and you will not have to upgrade your filter, as long as it was correctly sized the first time around. Even when using an efficient skimmer, make sure that you change the air stones frequently. Loss of efficiency because of worn out air stones is very common, and can so easily be avoided.

zombie???

Witamy Widze ze do tematu podeszlas podrecznikowo Brawo! Czekamy na regularne informacje o rozwoju baniaczka Pozdrowka

Oddam pol wiaderka glonow do refugium. Mieszanka chyba z 5 gatunkow. Glony pelne zycia - kielze i inne "robactwo" Odbior osobisty Pozdro

Co powoduje ze plynacy z pradem detrytus "skreci" do ktorejs z kieszeni a nie wyplynie z woda? (dolna prawa kropka) I jeszcze inna watpliwosc... Jesli nie stosujemy plenum czy DSB to wszystkie zlogi detrytusu sa zrodlem NO3 tak jak kazda zafajdana gabka

Kwas weglowy jest bardzo nietrwalym zwiazkiem. Jego powstawanie jest w zasadzie symboliczne poniewaz jon weglanowy bardzo szybko przechodzi w inne formy np: 1 - wraca do postaci gazowe,j CO2 rozpuszczone w wodzie lub oddane do atmosfery 2 - HCO3- jon wodoroweglowy - odpowiadajacy za KH 3 - Straca sie w postaci np weglanu wapnia CaCO3